- 2011 audi q5
- 2011 bmw 328i
- 2011 bmw 5-series
- 2011 bmw 535i
- 2011 bmw 6-series
- 2011 bmw m3
- 2011 bmw x3
- 2011 buick enclave
- 2011 chevrolet cruze
- 2011 chevrolet equinox
- 2011 chevrolet tahoe
- 2011 dodge grand caravan
- 2011 dodge ram
- 2011 ford escapes
- 2011 ford f-150
- 2011 ford fusion
- 2011 gmc sierra
- 2011 honda cr-z
- 2011 hyundai elantra
- 2011 jeep wrangler
- 2011 kia soul
- 2011 land rover lr2
- 2011 mini countryman
- 2011 nissan altima
- 2011 nissan juke
- 2011 nissan maxima
- 2011 toyota camry
- 2011 toyota corolla
- 2011 Toyota Prius
- 2011 toyota rav4
- 2011 toyota venza
- 2011 vw jetta
2011 ford escapes
2011 ford escapes questions and answers
Looking for more information about the 2011 ford escapes. Check out your automotive resource GoodCarBadCar.net.
Q: How many Gallons do the new 2011 ford escapes hold?
I just got a brand new Ford 2011 XLT Escape. Anyone know exactly how many gallons of gasoline this car holds? Thanks(:
A: 16.5 gallons. Don't use this for checking fuel mileage as it will be way off. It is not the correct way, just in case you are thinking that. Your owners manual tells this kind of thing. It should be in your glove box.
Q: Does the 2011 Ford Escape XLT 4x4 have a "4WD" or "4x4" badge on the exterior?
I recently bought a 2011 Ford escape XLT with 4WD (sticker and salesman said 4wd) but there is no 4WD or 4x4 badge on the tailgate like most other vehicles... Whats up!?
A: It might not have one. My parents bought a 2010 Toyota Highlander 4WD/AWD V6. it doesn't have a V6 badge on it, yet I've seen other Highlanders of the same vintage around that do. Doesn't seem to have a rhyme or reason to it. Don't worry about it, the "4WD" system in the Escape is much closer to an AWD system than it is a traditional 4WD system anyway.
Q: 2011 Ford Edge or Escape for 16 year old girl?
My grandma left me a lot of money before she passed and I am aloud to spend part of it on a car after I get my license in June. I've been looking at the 2011 Ford Escape it's about $21,000 and the Ford Edge is $27,000 I think I like the Escape more I feel like the Edge is more of a family car then one for a teenager plus it's $6,000 more expensive. What suv do you think I should get?
A: the Escape is a good choice it is safe and roomy, plus its cheaper
take a look at the chevy equinox also to compare..always compare before you buy
don't forget the prices you list are starting/base prices...expect to pay more or buy used
Q: 2011 KIA Sportage VS 2011 FORD Escape?
I'm looking into buying a car in the category of off-road comfortable SUV. I really like the the looks of the new Sportage but i also like the available technology options in the ford like sync. but what i really need is good fuel economy and value along with longevity i need a comfortable off road capable small SUV? so which is the best?
A: You also should compare car insurance quotes for cars before buying one, for example here - carquotes.fateback.com
Q: The advantages and disadvantages of buying new instead or used?
Or you can answer with the advantages and disadvantages of buying used, I am debating between getting a 2011 ford escape limited priced at 32,000 or a 2009 ford escape limited priced at 24,000. Any opinions?
A: I would make an offer on the 2009 for $22k out the door price(inc tax,lic®). There isn't $10k difference between the two.
Q: Could someone tell me whether or not this is a good one?
My husband and I are looking to buy a new vehicle within the next few months and I was wondering, from a parents point of view if the suv I was looking into would be large enough. I have 2002 Toyota Camry now, which isn't running as well as it used to and is looking a bit rough. I am looking at buying a 2011 Ford Escape (four door, five seater). We have two, three year olds and an eight month old. Do you think this would be a good vehicle choice? Thank you.
A: Not a bad choice, but you have to think about the future, especially if you plan on keeping the vehicle for a while. The truck is nice, but think about when your children are older. Road trips will be "He's touching me" and "She's on my side". lol. Wouldn't want to go through that if not neccessary. Something like a Ford Flex may be more spacious without going into a minivan.
Q: Does the car salesman determine the deal you get or bank?
This woman told me that she went to ford motors and came out with a 2011 ford escape even though her credit is bad and she couldnt get the bank to loan her money. She says Ford finances in house instead of through banks. How did that happen? Is it because the dealer has ultimate control on whether he wants to let you ride in a new car? and does he not get in trouble??
A: Most manufacturers have in-house financing that doesn't come from traditional financers (directly).
How can someone walk out with a car and bad credit? Big down payment, short term financing, high apr. Dealer has no control, it's the financer which is FORD. All manufacturers have some sort of in house financing.
Q: Is this a good first car for 16 year old girl?
My grandma left me a lot of money before she passed and I am aloud to spend part of it on a car after I get my license. I've been looking at the 2011 Ford Escape it's about $21,000 and the hybrid is $30,000. I love it I think it's stylish and safe (I live in Michigan so the 4x4 is going to help in the snow) What do you think about the Escape? This is a big choice I have to make, even though it's not my money that I earned working it still hurts my wallet to spend such a huge amount. So I need someone else's opinion. Also, do you think the hybrid is worth the extra $9,000?
A: It should be 4-door, 4-cyls, not sporty. I would prefer Honda or Toyota... First time drivers usually have much more expensive car insurance, and it depends from car. You should compare insurance rates while choosing the car - for example here - carquotes.fateback.com
Q: What subs and amp should I get?
I am looking to put subs and a amp in my 2011 Ford Escape Limited. I really like the sound of the Alpine Type R's. I am looking to put two 12" type R's in a sealed box. I prefer sealed boxes because I like a tighter sound. I want to stick with only one amp that will support both subs. My question is, which type R's should I get, the 2 ohm or the 4ohm? And I also would like to know what would be the best amp to get as well that would be perfect for the subs? If I am not mistaken, I believe I would want to go with 2 ohm because I am putting in more than one sub. Please correct me if I am wrong. Just looking for that "perfect" match I guess. I would like to stick to the Alpine brand but if anyone favors other brands let me know, I am always open to options. I am very limited on my knowledge when it come to car equipment, so be easy on me. I am still learning. Thanks!
A: Check out at amazon you can find more options here :
http://www.amazon.com/s/ref=nb_sb_noss?url=search-alias%3Daps&field-keywords=marshall+amp+&x=0&y=0&tag=klnprk-20
Also check out at Ebay
http://rover.ebay.com/rover/1/711-53200-19255-0/1?ff3=4&pub=5574865779&toolid=10001&campid=5336440665&customid=klnprk&mpre=http%3a%2f%2fshop.ebay.com%2fi.html%3f_nkw%3dheadphone%26_sacat%3d0%26_odkw%3dheadphone%26_osacat%3d0%26_trksid%3dp3286.c0.m270.l1313
Q: Exceed towing capacity?
I recently bought a 2011 Ford Escape, which has a rated towing capacity of 3,500 lbs.
I've been looking at buying a camper/trailer with a dry weight of 3,400 lbs, which when loaded with gear and water will probably weight about 4,500 lbs.
The salesman at the RV dealership told me that I should be able to tow that weight with no problems, if I get a transmission cooler and a weight-distributing hitch. He said that the manufacturers rating is an engineering calculation based upon the maximum weight towable by the vehicle for its entire life, and that if I was towing a trailer for a few weekends a year or even a few weeks once a year, that I should be easily able to exceed the towing capacity if I drove slowly and safely.
I'm looking at making a trip down the Oregon Coast, and want some feedback from experienced RVers if what I'm being told is correct and safe.
So I'm basically looking at exceeding my maximum rated towing capacity by about 30% for a period of about 2-3 weeks.
Safe, or asking for trouble?
P.S. If you're just going to Google "exceed towing capacity" and post a link for me, please don't post it. I'm looking for individual feedback from experienced RVers, not links from Google searches (already done that, thanks).
A: Having towed trailers of different sizes (everything from a single axle UHaul to a tractor/trailer combo) from coast to coast and from Florida to Alaska and back I have a few thoughts to throw in to the mix.
First off while towing a 4,500 pound trailer could be done with the right preparations to the towing vehicle there's another reason for the vehicle manufacture to list a max weight. You never want the weight of the trailer to get too close to the weight of the towing vehicle. If you swerve the mass of the trailer will take over and drag you along. Once that happens you're SOL. So while you can do things to help the drive-line survive the abuse you still are stuck with a towing vehicle that weighs only so much.
Having said that if you still want to tow the trailer in question regardless of the risks here are a few things to help the truck get you there and back.
1.) Trailer brakes: if the trailer doesn't have surge brakes make sure you get a proper electric brake controller to put in the Ford. This one item only can mean whether you survive coming down a simple mountain road.
2.) Transmission cooler: mount the biggest one you can and add a temperature gauge. It doesn't take much heat to destroy transmission fluid. If you see the temp getting too high when going up a hill slow down or pull over and give the transmission a few minutes to cool off some. I tow-bared an old Jeep CJ5A from SD to Alaska with a Dodge Caravan. Everyone told me I was going to kill the transmission due to all the mountain passes I had to drive through and would need a new one by the time I was done. With the use of the temp gauge on the mountain passes I pulled over every time it built up too much heat. The transmission lasted for several more years after the trip before an electronic component failed and I had to replace it.
3.) What does the owner's manual say about the use of the overdrive while towing? Most say to disengage the overdrive as it puts too much stress on the transmission when towing. This is also a good practice as it keeps your speed down. You don't need to be going 75 mph, especially if you are already exceeding the vehicle's recommending towing rating.
4.) Do you have the factory Class II towing package? If so this is most likely be a 1.5 inch receiver mount. They are only rated to 3,500 pounds. What you need to find would be at least a Class III hitch set up for a 2 inch receiver as they can handle more weight. Make sure someone sells a 2 inch mount setup for your model Ford before you make too many plans.
5.) Last item. Do you have the 4 cylinder or V6 engine? Hope it is the V6 as the 4 cylinder is only rated for 1,500 pounds.
The biggest killer when towing a lot of weight is speed. Just because everyone on the highway is doing 10 over the limit doesn't mean you have to keep up with them. Take your time and keep the speed down. It's better to take an hour extra to get to your destination instead of driving too fast and ending up not getting there at all.
Q: Which is better a 2WD, 4WD, FWD, or a AWD, and what's the difference between them?
I'm looking to get either an 2011 chevy equinox, chevy traverse, honda cr-v, kia sportage, or ford escape hybrid...and I want to know which is better and also what's the difference.
A: Well, you've actually asked two questions, but I am happy to answer both. First as to the drive lineup. 2WD means that 2 wheels are getting power, and making the car move. Can refer to either Rear Wheel Drive (RWD) or Front Wheel Drive (FWD.) Rear wheel drive is typically better for performance, since you can power-slide around corners, drift, and do other tricks. Front wheel drive is better in snow and ice, and can take corners faster on dry pavement. 4WD means all 4 wheels get power, great for mud, snow/ice, and off-roading, but not very good fuel economy. AWD still applies power to all 4 wheels, but is managed by a traction sensing system that changes the amount of power delivered to each wheel based on traction and turning. AWD is the best for control in snow and ice, and generally gives fuel economy comparable to 2WD cars. If you are not a racer, and you don't drive as fast as you possibly can, it doesn't really matter. If you drive in snow and ice, AWD is the best, FWD is the next best. If you want to go fast and do awesome tricks with your car, RWD is the only way to go. If you like mudding and rock-crawling, 4WD is for you.
Ok so to compare the cars....Honda CRV is the best, hands down. I've worked on all the above cars so I know what I am talking about. CRV has AWD, disc brakes all the way around, and a simple and easy layout. Both the Chevy's are garbage. Old-fashioned drum brakes in the rear, a totally lame steering setup, and absolutely worthless steering system. Kia sportage is OK, but the engine is not likely to last more than 7 or 8 years. The oil ports are too small, the rear main seal is thin as paper, the journal bearing around the main crank is machined to a very low standard of .02" clearance.... you don't want that motor, trust me. Ford escape hybrid, is an OK vehicle, but the electronics are destined for failure. The air conditioning control switches have the weakest possible connection, the seats wear out faster than anything else, the rear suspension is more fitting for a go-kart, the transmission main shaft is about as big as a sharpie marker, and the whole car has more plastic than metal. Get the CRV and you'll have a car that lasts a long, long time, and is easy and cheap to fix when something does eventually break.
Q: Is this ford escape worth how much they are asking?
http://apps.dealerconnection.com/dealers/rameyformwv/used-inventory?_flowExecutionKey=_c4F489EA4-41ED-59EC-92B8-C9D6320A6C88_k7F589070-2011-0986-356D-9C7235091D41&_eventId_vehicledetails=true&vin=1FMCU9EG9AKA64275&dealerPACode=09051&certifiedPreownedImg=true&mediaid=videoMediaID#historyreport
I love this car and I can put about 2500 down on it, however I wanted to keep my payments in the low 300's and this car for fianancing for 5 years would be well over 400 for my interest rate. Any suggestions? Should I try to talk the salesman down (I haven't talked to any salesman about it yet), should I save up for a bigger down payment, or should I try to keep looking? Thanks!
A: ummm, I'm pretty sure that there must be a misprint there on the price that they are advertising.
You should definitely get a better price.
The asking price ($28,995) on the link that you provided is actually MORE than the vehicles MSRP ($28,745) was when it was brand new, untitled, no miles, full manufacturers warranty, and rebates/incentives/discounts were available.
This is the original window sticker:
http://www.inventory.fordvehicles.com/services/inventory/WindowSticker.pdf?vin=1FMCU9EG9AKA64275&refid=DC&hash=a58b659991d87025229c5faf11c2a3&pacode=01648&modelid=173
Now it is a year old with 20 thousand miles on it and there are no rebates available on a pre-owned vehicle. Granted they have placed a Ford Certified Pre-owned Warranty on it now... but they STILL shouldn't ask MORE than the vehicle was when it was new?!?!?!?!
Really,.... I would call and ask them if they misprinted the price.
You can also plug the vehicle and options into Kelly Blue Book site and get a better feel as to what other vehicles like that are selling for.
http://www.kbb.com/
By the way, an Ebony Limited Edition Escape 4X4 with Camel Leather interior IS a beautiful vehicle.. and very nicely equipped... I'd by it in a heartbeat if the price were right!
EDIT for additional info:
I ran it through KBB for you.
As a Ford CPO unit, in my area, the price that KBB recommends in Excellent condition is $26,930.
I still think ^that's a bit high, but you can use the information that I gave to help you negotiate for a much better price than that dealer is asking.
I hope this helps.
:)
Q: Good first cars for a 2011 graduate?
I'm doing some serious research on potential 1st cars for myself. They recommend a sedan, like the Ford Focus or Toyota Camry or Honda Civic that's 7-12 years old. I wouldn't mind any of those three because they're good on gas and are considered safe, but I want an SUV or something that looks like one, like a Ford Escape. I've read that Jeeps have a high roll over rate and that new drivers would have a harder time driving any SUV model because of the gravity difference. While safety is one of my main factors, I also want to consider insurance rates. I'd be willing to pay between 80 and 130 dollars for insurance, so sports and foreign cars such as BMW or Volvo are out of the question. What is a good 1st car or SUV for an 18 year old?
A: For the situation like yours,I would like to suggest you have a look here www.Autoinsurancepro.info ,you should find something useful.